ADVERTISEMENT

Ingredient Analysis: Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Maleate

This page was last updated: 6 months ago. All information accurate at time of publishing.
Unlock the secrets of Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Maleate (pronounced as-kor-bil toko-feril ma-lee-ate), a potent antioxidant in skincare, as we delve into its origins, benefits, uses, and safety profile in this comprehensive guide.

What is Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Maleate?

Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Maleate, also known as 2-L-Ascorbyl 6-D-alpha-tocopheryl 2-butenedioate, is a unique compound that combines the antioxidant properties of Vitamin C (Ascorbyl) and Vitamin E (Tocopheryl) with Maleic Acid. This ingredient is synthesized through a complex chemical process that involves the reaction of Ascorbic Acid and Tocopheryl Acetate with Maleic Anhydride. The result is a stable, potent antioxidant that is widely used in the cosmetic industry.

The use of Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Maleate in cosmetics dates back several decades, with its antioxidant properties being highly valued for their ability to protect the skin from environmental stressors. Over time, it has become a popular ingredient in a variety of skincare products, thanks to its skin conditioning and emollient properties.

Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Maleate is often compared to other antioxidant ingredients such as pure Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) and Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate). While these ingredients also offer antioxidant benefits, Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Maleate stands out due to its enhanced stability and its ability to deliver both vitamins to the skin in a single ingredient. This stability makes it a preferred choice for formulators, as it is less likely to degrade in the presence of light, heat, and air compared to other forms of Vitamin C and E.

Typically, Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Maleate is used in a variety of skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, and anti-aging treatments. Its antioxidant, skin conditioning, and emollient properties make it a versatile ingredient that can help to improve skin texture, hydrate the skin, and protect against environmental damage. As such, it is a valuable addition to any skincare routine.

Benefits and Uses

In this section, we will delve into the officially recognized benefits and uses of Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Maleate:

Antioxidant

Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Maleate serves as an antioxidant in cosmetic products. In simple terms, antioxidants are substances that help protect our skin from the damage caused by harmful molecules known as free radicals. These free radicals can be produced through exposure to environmental factors such as pollution and sunlight. By neutralizing these free radicals, Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Maleate helps to maintain the health and vitality of the skin, preventing premature aging and maintaining a youthful appearance.

Skin Conditioning

Another official function of Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Maleate is skin conditioning. This means that it helps to enhance the appearance and feel of the skin. It works by increasing the skin’s hydration, suppleness, and smoothness, leading to an overall improvement in skin texture. This makes it a valuable ingredient in products aimed at improving skin feel and appearance, such as moisturizers and anti-aging creams.

Emollient

Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Maleate also functions as an emollient in cosmetic formulations. Emollients are ingredients that help to soften and smooth the skin. They work by filling in the spaces between skin cells, creating a smooth surface. This not only improves the feel of the skin but also helps to prevent moisture loss, keeping the skin hydrated and healthy. This makes Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Maleate a beneficial ingredient in products designed to moisturize and soften the skin.

It’s important to note that these benefits are based on the officially recognized and defined functions of Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Maleate. There may be other benefits and uses of this ingredient that go beyond the scope of these official functions. However, these additional benefits are not officially recognized and therefore are not discussed in this article.

Safety Profile

Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Maleate is not a banned or regulated ingredient in cosmetics. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetic products. However, as with any ingredient, individual reactions can vary and it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product widely.

As an antioxidant, skin conditioning agent, and emollient, Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Maleate is typically well-tolerated by the skin. However, potential side effects of topical application may include:

  • Minor skin irritation
  • Redness
  • Dryness

A note for women who are pregnant and/or breastfeeding – there is currently a lack of data regarding the safety of topically applied Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Maleate during pregnancy or breastfeeding. As such, it is recommended to consult a healthcare professional for further advice.

It’s important to note that adverse reactions to Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Maleate are not common. However, individual skin reactions can vary, and it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product widely.

This ingredient analysis has been commissioned by Truth In Skincare (TiS), an independent industry regulator. The analysis was conducted by a TiS-appointed industry consultant, whose sources include CosIng (Cosmetic Ingredient Database – by the European Commission), the Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), The US Food & Drug Administration (FDA) as well as other various publicly available sources.