What is Cis-Retinoic Acid?
Cis-Retinoic Acid, also known as Accutane, Isotretinoin (INN), Retinoic acid, 13-cis-, and 13-cis-Vitamin A acid, is a powerful ingredient used in the cosmetic industry. It is a derivative of Vitamin A, a nutrient that plays a crucial role in maintaining healthy skin. The term ‘cis’ refers to the specific geometric configuration of the molecule, which distinguishes it from its ‘trans’ counterpart.
The use of Cis-Retinoic Acid in cosmetics can be traced back to the 1980s when it was first introduced as an oral treatment for severe acne. Over time, its potent effects on skin health were recognized, and it began to be incorporated into topical skincare products. It is synthesized through a complex process involving the isomerization of all-trans-retinoic acid, another form of Vitamin A.
Compared to other similar ingredients, Cis-Retinoic Acid stands out due to its powerful anti-sebum properties. While other forms of Vitamin A, such as retinol, also exhibit beneficial effects on the skin, Cis-Retinoic Acid is particularly effective at reducing the production of sebum, an oily substance that can contribute to acne.
Typically, Cis-Retinoic Acid is found in products designed to combat oily skin and acne, such as creams, gels, and serums. Due to its potent effects, it is often used in products intended for professional use or prescribed by dermatologists. However, it can also be found in over-the-counter products at lower concentrations.
Benefits and Uses
In this section, we will delve into the officially recognized benefits and uses of Cis-Retinoic Acid:
Anti-Sebum
Cis-Retinoic Acid, also known as Accutane, Isotretinoin (INN), Retinoic acid, 13-cis-, or 13-cis-Vitamin A acid, is officially recognized for its anti-sebum properties. Sebum is an oily substance produced by our skin’s sebaceous glands. While it’s essential for keeping our skin hydrated and healthy, excessive sebum production can lead to oily skin, clogged pores, and acne breakouts. Cis-Retinoic Acid works by reducing the amount of sebum produced by these glands, thereby helping to prevent these skin issues.
For those struggling with oily skin or acne, products containing Cis-Retinoic Acid can be a game-changer. By reducing sebum production, these products can help to balance the skin, reduce the appearance of shine, and prevent clogged pores that can lead to breakouts. It’s important to note, however, that while Cis-Retinoic Acid can help to manage these issues, it may not completely eliminate them. As with any skincare ingredient, results can vary from person to person.
It’s also worth noting that the benefits listed here are based exclusively on the officially recognized and defined functions of Cis-Retinoic Acid. There may be other benefits and uses of this ingredient that go beyond the scope of its official functions. As always, it’s important to do your research and consult with a skincare professional to understand how this ingredient can best serve your individual skincare needs.
Safety Profile
Cis-Retinoic Acid, also known as Accutane or Isotretinoin, is not a banned ingredient, but it is heavily regulated in many countries due to its potential side effects. It is a prescription-only medication in the United States and many other countries, and its use is closely monitored by healthcare professionals.
As an anti-sebum ingredient, Cis-Retinoic Acid is generally safe for use in cosmetics. However, it can cause skin irritation and dryness, particularly in individuals with sensitive skin. It is not known to be a common allergen, but individuals with a history of allergic reactions to cosmetics should use products containing this ingredient with caution.
Potential side effects of topical application of Cis-Retinoic Acid include:
- Redness
- Dryness
- Peeling
- Itching
- Sensitivity to sunlight
A note for women who are pregnant and/or breastfeeding – Cis-Retinoic Acid is known to cause birth defects and should not be used by pregnant women. There is not enough research to determine whether it is safe for use during breastfeeding, so it is recommended that breastfeeding women avoid products containing this ingredient or consult a healthcare professional for further advice.
Side effects and adverse reactions to Cis-Retinoic Acid are not common, but they can occur. It is recommended that individuals patch test products containing this ingredient on a small area of skin before widespread usage to ensure they do not have an adverse reaction.
This ingredient analysis has been commissioned by Truth In Skincare (TiS), an independent industry regulator, using a TiS-appointed industry consultant. The sources for this analysis include CosIng (Cosmetic Ingredient Database – by the European Commission), the Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), The US Food & Drug Administration (FDA) as well as other various publicly available sources.
