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Ingredient Analysis: Phycocyanin

This page was last updated: 5 months ago. All information accurate at time of publishing.
Unravel the mystery of Phycocyanin (pronounced fy-koh-sigh-an-in), a protein pigment derived from blue-green algae, as we delve into its production process, uses, and safety profile in cosmetics. Discover its unique antioxidant properties, role as a natural colorant, and light stabilizing capabilities in this comprehensive guide.

What is Phycocyanin?

Phycocyanin is a protein pigment that is derived from Arthrospira platensis, a type of blue-green algae, and other similar algae. It is also known by other names such as C-Phycocyanin and Allophycocyanin. Chemically, it is a complex of proteins and chromophores, which are the molecules responsible for its color. The unique blue color of Phycocyanin is due to the presence of these chromophores.

Historically, Phycocyanin has been used for centuries in various cultures for its potential health benefits. However, its use in cosmetic products is a relatively recent development. The cosmetic industry has started to recognize the potential benefits of this ingredient, particularly for its antioxidant properties, and has begun incorporating it into various products.

The process of extracting Phycocyanin from algae involves several steps. First, the algae are harvested and dried. Then, the dried algae are ground into a fine powder. This powder is then mixed with water and filtered to remove any impurities. The resulting liquid is then subjected to centrifugation, a process that separates the Phycocyanin from the other components of the algae. The Phycocyanin is then purified and dried for use in cosmetic products.

Phycocyanin is often compared to other antioxidant ingredients used in cosmetics, such as Vitamin C and E. However, unlike these vitamins, Phycocyanin is a protein, which gives it a unique set of properties. For instance, it has a higher molecular weight, which means it can provide a more sustained release of antioxidants. Moreover, its blue color also makes it a natural colorant, a property not shared by most other antioxidants.

Phycocyanin is typically used in a variety of cosmetic products. Its antioxidant properties make it a popular ingredient in anti-aging products, such as serums and moisturizers. Its natural blue color also makes it a desirable ingredient in color cosmetics, such as eyeshadows and lipsticks. Furthermore, its light stabilizing properties make it a useful ingredient in sunscreens and other products designed to protect the skin from UV damage.

Benefits and Uses

In this section, we will delve into the officially recognized benefits and uses of Phycocyanin:

Antioxidant

As an antioxidant, Phycocyanin plays a crucial role in protecting the skin from damage. It does this by neutralizing harmful free radicals that can cause oxidative stress on the skin. Oxidative stress can lead to premature aging, wrinkles, and other skin issues. Therefore, the antioxidant properties of Phycocyanin can help maintain the skin’s youthful appearance and health.

Colorant

Phycocyanin is also used as a colorant in cosmetics. This means it is used to give products a specific color, in this case, a vibrant blue. This is particularly useful in a variety of cosmetic products such as eyeshadows, lipsticks, and blushes. The use of Phycocyanin as a colorant is a natural and safe alternative to synthetic dyes that can sometimes cause skin irritations.

Light Stabilizer

Another important function of Phycocyanin is its role as a light stabilizer. This means it helps to protect the product from degradation due to exposure to light. This is particularly important in cosmetics, as many products can lose their effectiveness or change their properties when exposed to light. By acting as a light stabilizer, Phycocyanin ensures the longevity and effectiveness of the cosmetic product.

It’s important to note that these benefits are based on the officially recognized and defined functions of Phycocyanin. There may be other benefits and uses of this ingredient that go beyond the scope of these official functions. However, these additional benefits are not officially recognized and should be considered with caution.

Safety Profile

Phycocyanin is not a banned or regulated ingredient in cosmetics. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetic products. However, as with any ingredient, individual reactions can vary and it is always recommended to do a patch test before widespread usage.

While Phycocyanin is not known to be a common allergen, some individuals may experience sensitivity or allergic reactions to it. The potential side effects of topical application of this ingredient include:

  • Redness
  • Itching
  • Swelling
  • Rash

A note for women who are pregnant and/or breastfeeding – there is currently a lack of data regarding the safety of topically applied Phycocyanin during pregnancy or while breastfeeding. As such, it is recommended to consult a healthcare professional for further advice.

Adverse reactions to Phycocyanin are not common, but it’s always a good idea to do a patch test before using any new product. Apply a small amount of the product to a patch of skin on your inner forearm. Wait 24 hours to see if there is any reaction before applying the product to larger areas of your skin.

This ingredient analysis has been commissioned by Truth In Skincare (TiS), an independent industry regulator. The analysis was conducted by a TiS-appointed industry consultant whose sources include CosIng (Cosmetic Ingredient Database – by the European Commission), the Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), The US Food & Drug Administration (FDA) as well as other various publicly available sources.