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Ingredient Analysis: Polylysine Acetate

This page was last updated: 5 months ago. All information accurate at time of publishing.
Discover the truth about Polylysine Acetate (pronounced pol-ee-ly-seen a-se-tate), a natural ingredient in your cosmetics: its origins, production process, benefits, and safety profile, all in this comprehensive guide.

What is Polylysine Acetate?

Polylysine Acetate, also known as Epsilon-Polylysine Acetate, is the acetate salt of Polylysine, a naturally occurring amino acid polymer. It is derived from a strain of the Streptomyces bacteria, which is known for its ability to produce a variety of bioactive compounds. The chemical composition of Polylysine Acetate is characterized by the presence of lysine, an essential amino acid, linked together in a chain-like structure.

The use of Polylysine Acetate in cosmetic products dates back several decades. Its anti-sebum properties were discovered through scientific research, leading to its incorporation in various cosmetic formulations. The production of Polylysine Acetate involves a fermentation process using the Streptomyces bacteria, followed by a series of purification steps to obtain the final product.

When compared to similar ingredients used for the same purpose, Polylysine Acetate stands out due to its natural origin and its effectiveness in controlling sebum production. While other ingredients might also possess anti-sebum properties, Polylysine Acetate is preferred for its mildness and compatibility with different skin types.

Typically, Polylysine Acetate is used in a variety of cosmetic products, including but not limited to, moisturizers and serums. Its primary function is to control sebum production, making it an ideal ingredient for products designed for oily and combination skin types. It can also be found in hair care products, where it helps to control oiliness and promote a healthy scalp.

Benefits and Uses

In this section, we will delve into the officially recognized benefits and uses of Polylysine Acetate:

Anti-Sebum

Polylysine Acetate is officially recognized for its anti-sebum function. In layman’s terms, this means it helps control the production of sebum, which is the oily substance produced by our skin’s sebaceous glands. Excessive sebum production can lead to oily skin, clogged pores, and acne. Therefore, the use of Polylysine Acetate in cosmetic products can help maintain a balanced skin oil level, prevent pore blockage, and reduce the likelihood of acne formation. This makes it a beneficial ingredient in skincare products, particularly those designed for oily or acne-prone skin.

It’s important to note that the benefits listed here are based on the officially recognized and defined functions of Polylysine Acetate. There may be other benefits and uses of this ingredient that go beyond the scope of these official functions. However, these additional benefits are not officially recognized and therefore, are not discussed in this article. Always remember to make informed decisions when choosing cosmetic products and not to be misled by brands and manufacturers.

Safety Profile

Polylysine Acetate is not a banned or regulated ingredient in cosmetics. However, like any other cosmetic ingredient, its safety and suitability largely depend on its concentration and the way it is used in a product. It is generally considered safe for topical use, but as with any ingredient, it may cause allergic reactions in some individuals.

The potential side effects of topical application of Polylysine Acetate include:

  • Redness
  • Itching
  • Skin irritation

A note for women who are pregnant and/or breastfeeding – there is currently a lack of data on the safety of topical usage of Polylysine Acetate during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Therefore, it is recommended to consult a healthcare professional for further advice.

Side effects or adverse reactions from Polylysine Acetate are not common, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before widespread usage to ensure there is no adverse reaction.

This ingredient analysis has been commissioned by Truth In Skincare (TiS), an independent industry regulator. The analysis was conducted by a TiS-appointed industry consultant whose sources include CosIng (Cosmetic Ingredient Database – by the European Commission), the Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), The US Food & Drug Administration (FDA) as well as other various publicly available sources.