What is Shikimic Acid?
Shikimic Acid, also known as (3R,4S,5R)-3,4,5-trihydroxycyclohex-1-enecarboxylic acid, is a naturally occurring compound that is derived from the seeds of the star anise plant, as well as other plants and bacteria. This organic acid is an important component in the biosynthesis of aromatic compounds in plants and microorganisms. It is a cyclohexene, a member of cyclohexanecarboxylic acids, and a trihydroxy acid. Its chemical structure is characterized by a cyclohexene ring bearing three hydroxy substituents at positions 3, 4, and 5 as well as a carboxy group at position 1.
The use of Shikimic Acid in cosmetics can be traced back to its discovery in the late 19th century by the German chemist, Johann G. Gmelin. It was initially used in the pharmaceutical industry, particularly in the production of the antiviral drug, Tamiflu. However, its potential benefits for skin health were soon recognized, leading to its incorporation in various cosmetic products.
Shikimic Acid is produced commercially through a process known as fermentation, where bacteria are used to convert glucose into Shikimic Acid. This process is preferred over extraction from natural sources due to its cost-effectiveness and efficiency.
Shikimic Acid serves a similar function to other skin conditioning agents, such as salicylic acid and glycolic acid. However, what sets Shikimic Acid apart is its additional anti-seborrheic and deodorant properties. This makes it a multifunctional ingredient in cosmetic formulations.
Typically, Shikimic Acid is used in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, and deodorants. Its skin conditioning properties make it an excellent ingredient in products designed to improve skin texture and appearance, while its anti-seborrheic function helps in controlling sebum production, making it beneficial for oily and acne-prone skin. Furthermore, its deodorant property contributes to body odor control, making it a common ingredient in deodorants and antiperspirants.
Benefits and Uses
In this section, we will delve into the officially recognized benefits and uses of Shikimic Acid:
Anti-Seborrheic
Shikimic Acid is officially recognized as an anti-seborrheic ingredient. In layman’s terms, this means it helps to control the production of sebum, the oily substance produced by our skin. Overproduction of sebum can lead to conditions like acne, oily skin, and other skin blemishes. By regulating sebum production, Shikimic Acid can help to maintain a balanced and clear complexion.
Deodorant
Another official function of Shikimic Acid is its use as a deodorant. This doesn’t mean it’s used to mask body odor, but rather, it works to neutralize and eliminate the bacteria that cause body odor. This makes it a valuable ingredient in deodorant products, contributing to a fresh and clean feeling that lasts.
Skin Conditioning
Shikimic Acid is also recognized for its skin conditioning properties. This means it helps to make the skin feel smoother, softer, and more supple. It achieves this by promoting the skin’s natural moisture balance and enhancing its texture and appearance. This makes Shikimic Acid a beneficial ingredient in a variety of skincare products, from moisturizers to serums.
It’s important to note that these benefits are based on the officially recognized and defined functions of Shikimic Acid. There may be other benefits and uses of this ingredient that go beyond the scope of these official functions. However, these additional benefits are not officially recognized and therefore, are not guaranteed.
Safety Profile
Shikimic Acid is not a banned or regulated ingredient in cosmetics. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetic products. However, like any ingredient, it may not be suitable for all skin types and there is always a potential for allergic reactions.
Some potential side effects of topical application of Shikimic Acid include:
- Redness
- Itching
- Dryness
- Skin irritation
A note for women who are pregnant and/or breastfeeding – there is currently a lack of data on the safety of topical usage of Shikimic Acid during pregnancy or while breastfeeding. As such, it is recommended to consult a healthcare professional for further advice.
Adverse reactions to Shikimic Acid are not common, but they can occur. As with any new skincare product, it is recommended to perform a patch test before widespread usage to ensure there is no adverse reaction.
This ingredient analysis has been commissioned by Truth In Skincare (TiS), an independent industry regulator. The analysis was conducted by a TiS-appointed industry consultant whose sources include CosIng (Cosmetic Ingredient Database – by the European Commission), the Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), The US Food & Drug Administration (FDA) as well as other various publicly available sources.
