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Ingredient Analysis: Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

This page was last updated: 6 months ago. All information accurate at time of publishing.
Unlock the secrets of Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (Tet-ra-hex-il-dec-yl As-cor-bate), a potent Vitamin C derivative in skincare, as we delve into its creation, benefits, and safety profile in this comprehensive guide.

What is Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate?

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, also known as Tetrakis(2-hexyldecyl) ascorbate, is a derivative of Vitamin C, specifically designed for use in skincare and cosmetic products. It is a lipid-soluble compound, meaning it is more easily absorbed into the skin compared to other forms of Vitamin C. This unique characteristic is due to its chemical composition, which includes a chain of carbon atoms that allow it to penetrate the skin’s lipid barrier more effectively.

The use of Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate in cosmetics is a relatively recent development. It was introduced as a more stable and effective alternative to other forms of Vitamin C, which are known to be unstable and degrade quickly when exposed to light and air. The process of making Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate involves combining ascorbic acid with a fatty alcohol, creating a compound that is both fat-soluble and stable.

When compared to other Vitamin C derivatives used in skincare, such as ascorbyl palmitate or sodium ascorbyl phosphate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate stands out due to its superior skin penetration abilities. This is because its lipid-soluble nature allows it to reach deeper layers of the skin, where it can exert its antioxidant and skin-conditioning effects more effectively.

Typically, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is found in a variety of skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, and anti-aging treatments. Its primary functions are to act as an antioxidant, protecting the skin from damage caused by free radicals, and to condition the skin, improving its texture and appearance. Due to its stability and effectiveness, it is a popular choice for brands looking to incorporate the benefits of Vitamin C into their products.

Benefits and Uses

In this section, we will delve into the officially recognized benefits and uses of Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate:

Antioxidant Properties

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is officially recognized for its antioxidant properties. In simple terms, antioxidants are substances that help protect our skin cells from damage. They do this by neutralizing harmful molecules known as free radicals, which can be produced by things like pollution, sunlight, and stress. When left unchecked, free radicals can cause oxidative stress, leading to premature skin aging and other skin problems. By acting as an antioxidant, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate helps to keep your skin healthy and youthful-looking.

Skin Conditioning

Another official function of Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is skin conditioning. This means it helps to make the skin feel smoother, softer, and more supple. It does this by enhancing the skin’s ability to retain moisture, which is crucial for maintaining skin health and preventing dryness and flaking. So, when you see Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate listed as an ingredient in your skincare products, you can expect it to help improve your skin’s texture and appearance.

It’s important to note that these benefits are based on the officially recognized functions of Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate. There may be other potential benefits and uses of this ingredient that go beyond these functions. However, these additional benefits are not officially recognized and therefore, are not discussed in this article.

Safety Profile

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is not a banned or regulated ingredient in cosmetics. It is generally considered safe for use in skincare and cosmetic products. However, as with any ingredient, individual reactions can vary and it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product widely.

As an antioxidant and skin conditioning agent, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is not known to be a common allergen. However, potential side effects of topical application could include:

  • Minor skin irritation
  • Sensitivity or allergic reaction in individuals with specific sensitivities

A note for women who are pregnant and/or breastfeeding – there is currently insufficient data on the safety of topical use of Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate during pregnancy or breastfeeding. As such, it is recommended to consult a healthcare professional for further advice.

Side effects or adverse reactions from Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate are not common, but as with any skincare ingredient, individual reactions can vary. It is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product widely.

This ingredient analysis has been commissioned by Truth In Skincare (TiS), an independent industry regulator. The analysis was conducted by a TiS-appointed industry consultant, using sources including the CosIng (Cosmetic Ingredient Database – by the European Commission), the Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), The US Food & Drug Administration (FDA), as well as other various publicly available sources.